Historical route: Axum 3

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The most intriguing claim of the Ethiopian Orthodox church is the possesion of the Ark of the Covenant, mentioned both in the Bible and the Quoran and said to contain the original stone tablets of Moses.

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The Ark is guarded in the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, in Axum but is not free for anyone except the most holy men of the Ethiopian church to see. In fact, if you see it and you are not a holy man, you DIE! We went to the church but was not allowed in. I tried to take a photo of the church, but then the holy "Guardian of the Ark" appeared and waved his finger at me...

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We did go to the museum though, and we did see a stone obelisk from the 4th centur written in three prehistoric languages that mention the Ark being brought to Ethiopia by emperor Menelik 1st who was the son of King Salomon and Queen Sheba. Quite a claim.

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After our "brush with death" of almost seeing the Ark of the Covenant, we took of to Lalibela and the rock hewn churches.

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Historical route: Axum 2

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Axum also has all these tombs. Some are below or in the vecinity of the obelisks, but others lies scattered around the countryside but are equally impressive.

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The one on the pic is called "the tomb of the false door". The Axumites made their tombs (as well as the obelisks) in the form of houses where the spirits could dwell. Underground are different rooms for different purposes, all carved out of enormous granite blocks. To me, the most intriguing part of all this is the symbolism hidden in these tombs. In this particular tomb we found carvings of different crosses on the walls. First, it tells us they wetre christian, but secondly, these crosses have inspired orders and religious groupings all around the world. We found both david's star and cross that the templars later used as their symbol. What does this imply? Did they come here? Their original name was actually "Poor Fellow-Soldiers of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon", and the Temple of Solomon is in Ethiopia...

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I just love this stuff. It's like being part of the "Name of the Rose" or anyone of the Dan Brown novels!

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But wait - it gets even better!

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Historical route: Axum

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After Gondar, we continued by domestic flight to Axum. None of these flights are longer than 50 minutes, so its really nu fuss apart from getting up early in the morning.

Axum is equally amazing but gives you another atmosphere. This is more ancient. Enormous obelisks and underground tombs that make you wonder how man managed to construct things like this out of hard granite without machines or other modern equipment. It's like Egypt. This place, just like the others we visited are all UNESCO world heritage sites.

AXUM was the capital of the old Abyssinia and ruled the place from 400 BC - 1000 AD! Quite an achievement. They had trading routes with Southern Europe, Alexandria, Byzantium and others during the roman era. Eventually they declined due to religious squabbles and the arabs cutting their trade routes.

Axum of today has a lot to offer for the historically interested tourist. The main attraction is the enormous Obelisks that the old rulers raised. The fallen one on the picture is supposed to be the biggest and heaviest man made structure made from one piece of stone...ever! It's weighing just 520 tonnes and is 33 meters high!

But Axum is not only stones and obelisks...

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Historical route of Ethiopia: Gondar

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Hi,

My mother was here for two weeks recently, and when you have visits, it is a great opportunity to go sightseeing in the country you live. You never get around to it otherwise.

So, after a couple of days in Addis, we went on the so called "historical route" to visit some of the world class wonders that northern Ethiopia offers for tourists. Ethiopia is not a place (obviously!) for beaches and relaxing holidays, but it is a great place for more "academic" and informed tourism. Ethiopia is the cradle of christianity and has played a crucial part in past-time historical events. Just to get your interest up i can throw out a couple of hints: Queen Sheba. King Salomon. The lost Ark of the Covenant. Moses stone tablets. Haile Selassie. Ras Tafari. Byzantine Empire. The list goes on.

We chose to go with domestic flights covering three historical sites in four days. We went first to Gondar (picture), then continued to Axum and finally to Lalibella before heading back to Addis. I will write a piece on each place.

GONDAR is the city of kings of old. In the 16hundreds the Solomic kings of Ethiopia went from keeping a nomadic lifestyle with no fixed capital (for security reasons) to establish themselves more permanently by lake Tana in northern Ethiopia and founded Gondar. Over time, each new king or queen build him/herself a new castle on the same grounds as the older one. Eventually the "royal enclosure" came to contain 7 castles and 3 churches, plus stables, bathes, sauna and a lot of other amazing constructions. To me, the closest comparison to this area is the Alhambra fortress in Granada, Spain.

This place would have been intact until today had it not been for the italians, who during the occupation wanted to drive out the Ethiopian forces that had established themselves there and fire-bombed the place for the purpose! Great job! So, now they are ruins. Although many of the palaces are mainly intact and you can enter them and have a look inside. Others are ruined.

When we arrived in Gondar, which is just as high up as Addis above sealevel (2300 something meters), the guide took us to Goha hotel which is situated at the very peak of one of the hills surrounding the castle area. It was an amazing view, and the terrace of the hotel is like taken from the White City of Gondor in the Lord of the Rings. And then it struck us: Of course a lot of the inspiration for Tolkien came from these historical places! All the myths surrounding this area. Gondor/Gondar. The castles. The layout. The city of Kings, Minas Tirith! (later we continued to Lalibella, and the old historical name of Lalibela is Roha, and the people are called Rohan!)

Anyway, after the tour of the castles we also checked out the King Fasilides baths, which is still used to celebrate Ethiopian Timkat, or the Epiphany for the Ethiopian Orthodox church. Another amazing site which is filled up with water every year for massive baptism ceremonies.

Check out the link in this post for more info!

Axum next...

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Diving in Djibouti

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Landlocked townslife in Addis gets on your nerves, so we took a four days hastily decided trip to neighboring Djibouti just to get away. Here, Djibouti has the fame of just being a huge port with a lot of oilspill, and nobody really thought it as a good idea to go there for relaxing. But we took a chance and booked a hotel at an island that we found through an ad in Addis.

 

After the 1 hour flight we landed at the minuscule Djibouti international airport and got picked up by a driver who didn't speek a word english. Djibouti is french speaking by the way, and my french isn't as good as it says in my CV (don't tell anyone!). Night falls quick and when we arrive at the huge port it is already dark. A speedboat comes by and tells us to board. The Somali driver speeks some english which is nice. The trip to the island is usually only 25 minutes, but it takes us an hour because of the dark. We pass several ENORMOUS oiltankers and other freight ships on the way. I quietly wonder how many of them will be hijacked by Somali pirates on the way to their destinations...

 

Isa sleeps in the kangaroo at my front ant the sky is filled with stars. The waves are big though and our nanny (who we brought along) almost jumps ship when a flying fish lands in her lap. She has never seen the coast, never tasted salt water, never eaten a shrimp and can not swim.

 

We arrive at the rock-in-the-ocean island and are served dinner. The place is absurd. A couple of brick houses (with AC thanx good) on a rock in the midst of the ocean in pirate infested waters. And on top of that the island's name is Mouche, which supposedly means "snot" or "snor" in swedish. But, as it turns out, the sea is nice, clear and warm, the beaches are really good and the diving is world class. There is a dive center on the island and even though I didn't bring my certificate I am allowed to join on a trip.

 

We dive at a huge wreck from 1975 at 27 meters. The propeller of the gargantuan ship is 26 meters tall! Fish has made this wreck their home and it has almost become part of the living ocean itself. Below me swims a stingray with at least 1.5 meters between the tips of its romb-shaped body, excluding the tail.

 

It was a great relax. But the real fun comes when we go back sometime between november - march when the whaleshark season is on! It is the biggest fish in the world and this is the best place in the world to swim with these gentle giants. They swim shallow in hunt for food so you can snorkel with them. It is one of those things you should do before you die... Check out this link.

 

regards

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The Road to Bishangari Lodge

A couple of weeks ago we made a weekend trip to an eco-lodge called Bishangari. It is situated by the shores of lake Langando (see earlier blogposts). It turned out to be a really nice, laid back place with good food, solar power, bio gas and waste recycling. Wildlife is right on the doorstep in the form of wild boars, hippos, baboons, white-taled monkies and an abundand bird-life. There are some nice walks in the wood also. We put Isa in a backpack and took off walking in the woods to a small waterfall nearby.

The really interesting stuff about the trip was the Indiana Jones-style road to get there. The first 3 hours are nice, paved highway, but the last 20 kilometers are gravel roads that are un passable without 4WD. The local kids have understood the relative difficulty for tourists to find the place and offer to show you the way for some Birrs. Although, it is completely uneccessary since the trees are all marked with orange and white colors to guide you. The kids still try to convince you that you need their help and jump on the car whilst you drive. They hang on to the spare wheel on the back screaming "guide mister!" while you try to concentrate on driving on this really scary road!

Then you pass a couple of bridges... The first are small, but ok to pass, but the last one is actually a container that somebody has put on top of a gorge and opened the two sides to let vehicles pass through (pic). Fine, but the thing is obviously made for Nissan Micra, not for a Mitsubishi Pajero. With the rear view mirrors folded, I think we had 3 centimeters left on each side. No kidding!

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En inblick i Addis trafikkaos

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En av sakerna man snabbast lägger märke till i Addis är...trafiken. Addis är en mångmiljonstad. Vägarna är urusla efter regnsäsongen...förresten, de var urusla redan innan, och överallt pågår vägarbeten. Detta i kombination med att det överhuvudtaget inte existerar några som helst trafikregler - inte ens en högerregel i sikte - gör att det är en total mardröm varenda gång man måste ut i kaoset. Det är inte ovanligt att man blir sittande en timme i en rondell om man tajmar peak-hour.

Idag var en dag som alla andra. Enda skillnaden var att vi hade kameran med oss. Lastbilen på fotot tänkte ta en genväg över ön i mitten och köra mot trafikriktningen i den andra filen för att försöka komma förbi kön. Tydligen var mitten för hög och lastbilen fastnade mitt i. Där blev han stående och spärrade en fil. Ingen polis bryr sig, trots att de vimlar av dem...

Vi får se vad vi kan fota imorgon.

ciao
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